For years, Pompano Grill was “our place” to residents of Cocoa Beach and its environs, an unobtrusive little restaurant tucked away in a building blocks from the beach, amid the strip centers on Brevard Avenue.
Decorated in a charming, 1950s or ‘60s-ish way, with nets, fish and other marine scenery, it was wonderful for what its name indicated: fresh fish.
Go forward several years and Pompano Grill still is where local residents dine, and yet more wonderful.
Gone is that fishy décor, replaced by more restrained tones of dark green, now with an owner who greets all comers, and her daughter the wine expert, who presents a fine selection of beverages. Everything about the place is quietly relaxed.
The seafood remains, however, on an ever-changing list of what’s fresh, and the menu is wisely limited but diverse.
Deep-fried Brie ($12) comes with bits of bacon, fresh fruit, whatever compote is appropriate for the time and fresh bread, and it is grand. “Pompano’s Pasta” ($22) is its version of carbonara: homemade spaghetti in a lovely parmesan cream sauce with bacon and onion. Cheshire pork chop ($25) is a gigantic (16 ounces), double-bone thing topped with mushroom gravy and served with parsley pesto.
We visited with a group of food-lovers from FLORIDA TODAY’s Facebook group, 321 Flavor: Where Brevard Eats, and members of that notoriously fussy bunch were pleased, though some were less than impressed by the beef bourguignon, which was said to be bland. They were, however, delighted by the shrimp and grits ($29), which is comprised of big, blackened shrimp served over Tillamook cheddar and jalapeno grits, topped with shrimp bisque and bacon lardons; and the wild boar and lamb cassoulet.
In this case, fried oysters (market price) provided the appetizer and a fine one it was: tender oysters coated in crunchy cornmeal — the contrast in textures made the dish — and served over first-class creamed spinach, beautifully plated.
Then again, everything at Pompano Grill is beautifully plated, often with fresh, edible blossoms. If Brevard restaurants had a presentation award, Pompano Grill could win it.
Though a filet would have been grand for an entrée, frequent diners raving about Pompano Grill’s version as they do, salmon (market price) was a dietary necessity, and it was no hardship. This was a large piece — “hunk” is a good description — of Scottish salmon in a slightly sweet, slightly acidic glaze served over marvelous black rice. It is one of the better versions of in the area.
Pompano Grill owner Jackie Sampson is as fussy about Scottish salmon as she is about oats or haggis, and she is one of the area’s better-known producers of specialty cakes, pies and other specialty desserts, so if you’re going for dessert at her restaurant, it’s wise to go with something as Scottish as she is. In this case, that was banoffee tart, that combination of toffee, bananas and cream in a shortbread crust, and it is one of the best you will have, complete with torched, caramelized banana slice and curls of quality dark chocolate.
As for the wine, no one was displeased with the Tuscan super red suggested by wine wizard Erika, either.
You may notice that some prices of menu items are not listed here, and that is because Pompano Grill goes with market prices on many of its items. It also changes the menu frequently, so by the time the information gets to you, it may have changed.
Anyway, in the midst of the restaurant revolution (Flavour, Nosh, Luna, etc.) currently underway in Cocoa Beach, that old favorite, Pompano Grill, continues to stand out. It is a gem. See you there soon.
Pompano Grill
Four stars
Address: 110 N. Brevard Ave., Cocoa Beach
Hours: 5:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays
Call: 321-784-9005
Online: pompanogrill.com
WiFi: Yes
Other: Vegetarian options; online reservations.
About our reviews
Restaurants are rated on a five-star system by FLORIDA TODAY’s reviewer. The reviews are the opinion of the reviewer and take into account quality of the restaurant’s food, ambiance and service. Ratings reflect the quality of what a diner can reasonably expect to find. To receive a rating of less than three stars, a restaurant must be tried twice and prove unimpressive on each visit. Each reviewer visit is unannounced and paid for by FLORIDA TODAY.
Five stars: Excellent. A rare establishment to which you’d be proud to take the most discerning diner.
Four stars: Very good. Worth going out of your way for. Food, atmosphere and service are routinely top notch.
Three stars: Good. A reasonably good place with food and service that satisfy.
Two stars: Fair. While there’s nothing special about this establishment, it will do in a pinch.
One star: Not recommended. Don’t bother.
Join the conversation at facebook.com/groups/321FlavorWhereBrevardEats.
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Restaurant review: Pompano Grill in Cocoa Beach stands out among restaurants in the area - Florida Today
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