When Robert Stehling in April announced Hominy Grill would close in a matter of weeks, Charleston residents thronged the Cannonborough-Elliottborough restaurant by the thousands.
Many who came for the biscuits and gravy, shrimp-and-grits and chocolate pudding admitted they couldn’t remember when they’d last patronized the Southern cooking institution. They’d mistakenly assumed it would always be there.
But after 24 years in business, Stehling was worn out.
While other downtown Charleston restaurants have lately been forced to contend with employee shortages and surging rents, Stehling had the dual advantages of a loyal crew and building ownership. Still, as he told The Post and Courier, “Things have a beginning, a middle and an end. I felt like at this point in my life, I would like to be open to new experiences.”
During its remarkable run, Hominy Grill was singled out by The New York Times for serving some of the best breakfasts in the country. The restaurant was featured on the front cover of Food & Wine magazine and named to Eater’s inaugural list of the nation’s 38 essential restaurants.
Its legacy, though, will long outlast its media coverage. Stehling, who in 2008 received the James Beard Foundation’s award for Outstanding Chef: Southeast, eighty-sixed tablecloths and served pimento cheese when the idea of serving modest food in a comfortable setting was considered at odds with sophistication.
As John T. Edge, director of the Southern Foodways Alliance, said upon Hominy’s closing: “American cuisine has caught up with Robert Stehling.”
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December 22, 2019 at 12:01PM
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Hominy Grill closed, but its legacy will live on - Charleston Post Courier
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